Monday, March 21, 2011

Honolulu Festival--Samoan Tattoos and my Ukulele Idol

The Honolulu Festival, showcasing Pacific Rim cultures, was in full bloom during my recent visit to Hawaii, though subdued in respect for the devastating losses in Japan.  A fireworks show that took three years to plan was cancelled, though the three-day festival was poised to begin when the earthquake and tsunami struck.  Performers and artists from many Japanese Prefectures had arrived, and so the event went on.

The Festival finale was a parade down Waikiki's Kalakaua Street thoroughfare, where groups from dozens of countries and regions marched and performed in native dress.  Dragon costumes held up by two or more walkers opened their mouths to collect donations to help stricken Japanese.  Occasionally, a high school marching band from some unexpected place like Montana would sound in its formation wearing long maroon felt uniforms completely out of place in the 80-degree heat.

And then there were the proud representatives of various native groups, distinctive in their costumes as well as their movement.  Two such groups took what appeared to be bamboo matchstick-style place mats and formed them into shapes as they walked--suddenly there were bridges and birds and spires in the hands of (usually quite mature) paraders.

However, the most eye-catching collection were the men and women who chose to identify with their Samoan heritage through traditional body tattooing, called "pe'a" for men and "mala" for women.  This isn't your typical anchor or angel wings or a girlfriend's name--instead, it's designation of chiefdom or high rank that enduring its deeply painful application attests.  On men, pe'a is a dense web of geometric forms that includes large solid black swaths and extremely closely-knit designs covering the body from ribs to knees.

According to Wikipedia, tattoos are applied using a series of "combs," that are hammered into the skin using a two-foot-long mallet made of palm spine called a "sausau."  The people in the parade seemed cheerful and friendly, but to see each with an
intricate fishnet-stocking type ink pattern to his knees, and elaborate swaths of very detailed dark etching, was eye-catching and personally, I'll admit, surprising.

The parade announcer said that these were younger people who chose to identify with their heritage by reviving the nearly-lost tattooing tradition (in fact, it's said the English word "tattoo" derives from the Samoan term, "tatau").   While I support ethnic pride, I wonder if these people will find that their acceptance in the workworld--even with increased prevalence of all sorts of tattoos generally--will be impeded.

Apparently, the arduous process of being traditionally Samoan tattooed requires five steps, done over many days due to inflammation and pain.  Certainly, anyone who undergoes this has permanently cast his lot with the tribal history of Samoa, as well as demonstrated a willingness to suffer for that identification.

I loved the Honolulu Festival not only because it was colorful and exciting but because I saw and learned so much.  Several groups had created "mikoshis," shrines in which spirits dwell, carried upon the shoulders of perhaps a dozen marchers.  Jake Shimabukuru, beloved ukulele master (I have several of his albums--Yay Jake!) rode in the parade and later did a benefit concert for Japan. Australian aborigines, the world's largest aloha shirt, costumed performers from many Japanese prefectures--all contributed to my awe.

7 comments:

  1. Cool.

    I wonder if these people will find that their acceptance in the workworld--even with increased prevalence of all sorts of tattoos generally--will be impeded.

    From what I've seen/understand, tattoos aren't much of an issue so long as they're not above the collarbone. As long as they are easily covered, it's just not much of an issue. I've been surprised to see some noticeable tattoos on people in large professional companies, but usually very small ones.

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    2. I notice your post is 3 years old, but I will offer a response regardless.

      As Randy P. already put it, the Pe'a is a cultural tradition that is sacred to all Samoans. When you die, nobody gives a rat's arse about a person's career. As for the 'working-world'. these tattoos has been around long before it and it will stick around long after it. In fact, in Samoa, Chiefs, Members of Parliament and Ministers carry them. It is a cultural practise that will prevail whether the so-called 'working world' likes it or not.

      With that said, Samoa is not a country slave to the needs of the corporate world where people are expect to forsake their culture for a meaningless company that will fade with time.

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    3. Here is Randy's comment as he put this perfectly clear;

      Randy P.:
      "The Pe'a or samoan body tattoo is more than just your run of the mill "tattoo" that college students get to look cool or tough. The Pe'a is a very, very, spiritual, cultural, and personal process. The "work world" has "nothing" to do with what you think is your perception of the "real world".

      To get a Pe'a is to know that you are One with your God, Spirit, Family, Deceased Family, and your own Personal Self. You do not get a Pe'a out of fun or entitlement.

      It is a mark on the body of men and women which is full of cultural and spiritual dignity.

      Do not dare compare Pe'a with stupid "drunken" tattoos or need to dignify oneself. The Pe'a "comes" to you, as if you are "chosen" to be strong in your spirit and strong in support and prestige amongst your fellow "villagers".

      Work world? Work place? Last time I checked...when people die no one gives a rats anus about how their career went. The Pe'a is a beautiful reminder even in death of the love and prestige you have carried.

      May not work for the "white bread" christian beliefs of holy body representing the holy spirit. However, think outside of your lonely little boxes..."

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  2. I agree with Ezzie that tattoos are for the most part commonplace and of very little (if any) consequence with proper covering. Hands, neck, and face are obviously a different story.

    I'm a marketing professional and have two tattoos (a cross on my right shoulder blade and "Truth" written in Hebrew on the inside of my left bicep). Even in the summer when I'm wearing short-sleeved dress shirts neither can be seen.

    And keep in mind when folks worry about tattoo employment implications they usually have a very limited picture of what that job interview looks like. Not everyone works as a white collar stiff -- like me.

    =)

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  3. Ezzie and Conservative, I think for me tatoos are problematic because they're so permanent--and they irrevokably change (and in my view, disfigure) the body, which I consider an awesome creation of God. (Then again, I don't even have pierced ears...)

    I respect each person's decision on this, though I'm curious about his/her motivation and subsequent satisfaction as the years go on.

    Still--you're both right that nowadays non-visible tattoos are not an issue.

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  4. The Pe'a or samoan body tattoo is more than just your run of the mill "tattoo" that college students get to look cool or tough. The Pe'a is a very, very, spiritual, cultural, and personal process. The "work world" has "nothing" to do with what you think is your perception of the "real world".

    To get a Pe'a is to know that you are One with your God, Spirit, Family, Deceased Family, and your own Personal Self. You do not get a Pe'a out of fun or entitlement.

    It is a mark on the body of men and women which is full of cultural and spiritual dignity.

    Do not dare compare Pe'a with stupid "drunken" tattoos or need to dignify oneself. The Pe'a "comes" to you, as if you are "chosen" to be strong in your spirit and strong in support and prestige amongst your fellow "villagers".

    Work world? Work place? Last time I checked...when people die no one gives a rats anus about how their career went. The Pe'a is a beautiful reminder even in death of the love and prestige you have carried.

    May not work for the "white bread" christian beliefs of holy body representing the holy spirit. However, think outside of your lonely little boxes...

    ReplyDelete